Transvestia

Let us analyze the types of figures. Naturally there are many variations, but for simplification, we shall group them under five classifications; the short, the tall the stout and thin, those with large hips, those with broad shoulders. If you are a combination of any two figure types, combine your knowledge of the two. Sup- pose you have a large bosom and narrow hips. You should combine the line for a stout with line for broad shoulders and narrow hips.

If you are a Junoesque type, tall and inclined to be heavy, combine the most suitable line for a tall slim person with that for a stout person. It can be done. First learn the rules, then prepare for exceptions.

THE SHORT WOMAN: Since the general effect of a short woman's figure is horizontal, the line of the cos- tume must be perpendicular to counteract her shortness. The lines must not be obvious. They should be curved, broken or diagonal, rather than straight up and down.

She

A short woman should never wear a blouse or jacket of one color with a skirt or slacks of another color. will appear taller if her entire costume is of one color. If trim of another color is desired, it should be in the form of long tuxedo collars, scarves or panels, never in the form of broad belts, large pockets or bunchy bows. A short woman must avoid heavy detail, elaborate trim and strong splashes of contrast. The effect should be subtle. All detail should be kept in proportion to the figure. Embroidery should be delicate in detail, espec- ially if gay in color.

She must also avoid large accessories, such as big hats, big picket books and fluffy, long haired furs. She should wear medium sized hats, with an upsweeping, dr. agonal tilt, a medium-sized bag and furs that are not bulky.

She must avoid flaring skirts, boxy jackets and capes. These will cut her height. She can wear gored or pleated skirts, fitted jackets with a slight flare for softness and a full length princess line coat. She must avoid heavy jewelry. She should avoid round necks and high soft collars, yokes and shirred details. She should use in-

51